Options For Your Downpayment

Tanya Toye • October 2, 2024

Your downpayment refers to the initial payment you make when buying a property through mortgage financing. A downpayment is always required when purchasing, because in Canada, lenders are only allowed to lend up to 95% of the property value, leaving you with the need to come up with at least 5% for a downpayment.


In fact, securing mortgage financing with anything less than 20% down is only made possible through mortgage default insurance. Canada has three default insurance providers: the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC), Sagen (formerly Genworth Canada), and Canada Guaranty. There is a cost for default insurance which is usually rolled into the total mortgage amount and is tiered depending on how much you put down.


As your downpayment can be a significant amount of money, you probably need a plan to put this money together. So, let’s take a look at some of the options you have to come up with a downpayment.


Money from your resources


If you’ve been saving money and have accumulated the funds and set them aside for to use for your downpayment, you'll need to prove a 90-day history of those funds. As far as the lender is concerned, this is the most straightforward way to prove a downpayment.


Any large deposits to your bank account that aren’t from payroll will require you to prove the source of funds. For example, if you recently sold a vehicle, you’ll need to provide the paperwork as proof of ownership, which corresponds to your account’s deposit. Or, if you have funds in an investment account that you’ve transferred over, statements of that transfer or account would suffice.


You have to prove the source of your downpayment funds to the lender when qualifying for a mortgage to help prevent money laundering.


Funds from the sale of another property


If you’ve recently sold a property and you’re using the proceeds of that sale as the downpayment from your new purchase, you can provide the paperwork from that transaction to substantiate your downpayment.


RRSPs through the Home Buyer’s Plan


Okay, so let’s say you don’t have all the money set aside in your savings, but you do have cash in your RRSP. Assuming you’re a first-time homebuyer, you can access the funds from your RRSP Tax-Free to use as a downpayment.


You’re able to access up to $35k individually or $70k as a couple. The money has to be paid back over the next 15 years. If you’d like more information on what this program looks like, please get in touch.


Gifted downpayment


Now, if you don’t have enough money in your savings, but you have a family member who is willing to help, they can gift you funds for your downpayment. With the increased cost of living, making it harder to save for a downpayment, receiving a gift from a family member is becoming increasingly commonplace.


Now, to qualify, the gift has to come from an immediate family member who will sign a gift letter indicating there is no schedule of repayment and that the gift doesn’t have to be repaid. Proof that the money has been deposited into your account is required through bank statements.


Gifted funds can make up part of or the entire amount of downpayment. For example, if you purchase a property for $300k and have $10k saved up, your parents can gift you the remaining $5k to make up the total 5% downpayment.


Borrowed downpayment


Suppose you aren’t fortunate enough to have a family member who can gift you a downpayment, but you have excellent credit and a high income compared to the amount you’re looking to borrow. In that case, you might qualify to borrow part or all of your downpayment.


It’s possible to borrow your downpayment as long as you include the payments in your debt service ratios. Typically this is 3% of the outstanding balance.


So there you have it, to qualify for a mortgage, you’ll need to come up with a downpayment. That can be through your resources, a property you sold, an RRSP, a gift from a family member, borrowed funds, or a combination of all five sources.


If you’d like to discuss your downpayment or anything else related to mortgage financing; it’s never too early to start the conversation about getting pre-approved for a mortgage. Please connect anytime. It would be a pleasure to work with you!


Tanya Toye

Mortgage Broker

GET STARTED

Mortgage Approval 101: GDS & TDS Explained

By Tanya Toye • August 13, 2025
Can You Afford That Mortgage? Let’s Talk About Debt Service Ratios One of the biggest factors lenders look at when deciding whether you qualify for a mortgage is something called your debt service ratios. It’s a financial check-up to make sure you can handle the payments—not just for your new home, but for everything else you owe as well. If you’d rather skip the math and have someone walk through this with you, that’s what I’m here for. But if you like to understand how things work behind the scenes, keep reading. We’re going to break down what these ratios are, how to calculate them, and why they matter when it comes to getting approved. What Are Debt Service Ratios? Debt service ratios measure your ability to manage your financial obligations based on your income. There are two key ratios lenders care about: Gross Debt Service (GDS) This looks at the percentage of your income that would go toward housing expenses only. 2. Total Debt Service (TDS) This includes your housing costs plus all other debt payments—car loans, credit cards, student loans, support payments, etc. How to Calculate GDS and TDS Let’s break down the formulas. GDS Formula: (P + I + T + H + Condo Fees*) ÷ Gross Monthly Income Where: P = Principal I = Interest T = Property Taxes H = Heat Condo fees are usually calculated at 50% of the total amount TDS Formula: (GDS + Monthly Debt Payments) ÷ Gross Monthly Income These ratios tell lenders if your budget is already stretched too thin—or if you’ve got room to safely take on a mortgage. How High Is Too High? Most lenders follow maximum thresholds, especially for insured (high-ratio) mortgages. As of now, those limits are typically: GDS: Max 39% TDS: Max 44% Go above those numbers and your application could be declined, regardless of how confident you feel about your ability to manage the payments. Real-World Example Let’s say you’re earning $90,000 a year, or $7,500 a month. You find a home you love, and the monthly housing costs (mortgage payment, property tax, heat) total $1,700/month. GDS = $1,700 ÷ $7,500 = 22.7% You’re well under the 39% cap—so far, so good. Now factor in your other monthly obligations: Car loan: $300 Child support: $500 Credit card/line of credit payments: $700 Total other debt = $1,500/month Now add that to the $1,700 in housing costs: TDS = $3,200 ÷ $7,500 = 42.7% Uh oh. Even though your GDS looks great, your TDS is just over the 42% limit. That could put your mortgage approval at risk—even if you’re paying similar or higher rent now. What Can You Do? In cases like this, small adjustments can make a big difference: Consolidate or restructure your debts to lower monthly payments Reallocate part of your down payment to reduce high-interest debt Add a co-applicant to increase qualifying income Wait and build savings or credit strength before applying This is where working with an experienced mortgage professional pays off. We can look at your entire financial picture and help you make strategic moves to qualify confidently. Don’t Leave It to Chance Everyone’s situation is different, and debt service ratios aren’t something you want to guess at. The earlier you start the conversation, the more time you’ll have to improve your numbers and boost your chances of approval. If you're wondering how much home you can afford—or want help analyzing your own GDS and TDS—let’s connect. I’d be happy to walk through your numbers and help you build a solid mortgage strategy.

Fixed Or Variable Rate Mortgage?

By Tanya Toye • August 6, 2025
If you're looking to buy a new property, refinance, or renew an existing mortgage, chances are, you're considering either a fixed or variable rate mortgage. Figuring out which one is the best is entirely up to you! So here's some information to help you along the way. Firstly, let's talk about the fixed-rate mortgage as this is most common and most heavily endorsed by the banks. With a fixed-rate mortgage, your interest rate is "fixed" for a certain term, anywhere from 6 months to 10 years, with the typical term being five years. If market rates fluctuate anytime after you sign on the dotted line, your mortgage rate won't change. You're a rock; your rate is set in stone. Typically a fixed-rate mortgage has a higher rate than a variable. Alternatively, a variable rate is not set in stone; instead, it fluctuates with the market. The variable rate is a component (either plus or minus) to the prime rate. So if the prime rate (set by the government and banks) is 2.45% and the current variable rate is Prime minus .45%, your effective rate would be 2%. If three months after you sign your mortgage documents, the prime rate goes up by .25%, your rate would then move to 2.25%. Typically, variable rates come with a five-year term, although some lenders allow you to go with a shorter term. At first glance, the fixed-rate mortgage seems to be the safe bet, while the variable-rate mortgage appears to be the wild card. However, this might not be the case. Here's the problem, what this doesn't account for is the fact that a fixed-rate mortgage and a variable-rate mortgage have two very different ways of calculating the penalty should you need to break your mortgage. If you decide to break your variable rate mortgage, regardless of how much you have left on your term, you will end up owing three months interest, which works out to roughly two to two and a half payments. Easy to calculate and not that bad. With a fixed-rate mortgage, you will pay the greater of either three months interest or what is called an interest rate differential (IRD) penalty. As every lender calculates their IRD penalty differently, and that calculation is based on market fluctuations, the contract rate at the time you signed your mortgage, the discount they provided you at that time, and the remaining time left on your term, there is no way to guess what that penalty will be. However, with that said, if you end up paying an IRD, it won't be pleasant. If you've ever heard horror stories of banks charging outrageous penalties to break a mortgage, this is an interest rate differential. It's not uncommon to see penalties of 10x the amount for a fixed-rate mortgage compared to a variable-rate mortgage or up to 4.5% of the outstanding mortgage balance. So here's a simple comparison. A fixed-rate mortgage has a higher initial payment than a variable-rate mortgage but remains stable throughout your term. The penalty for breaking a fixed-rate mortgage is unpredictable and can be upwards of 4.5% of the outstanding mortgage balance. A variable-rate mortgage has a lower initial payment than a fixed-rate mortgage but fluctuates with prime throughout your term. The penalty for breaking a variable-rate mortgage is predictable at 3 months interest which equals roughly two and a half payments. The goal of any mortgage should be to pay the least amount of money back to the lender. This is called lowering your overall cost of borrowing. While a fixed-rate mortgage provides you with a more stable payment, the variable rate does a better job of accommodating when "life happens." If you’ve got questions, connect anytime. It would be a pleasure to work through the options together.